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Diamonds     

a. Getting Worth Of What You're Paying For

When purchasing a diamond, always get a "plot" of the stone and a second opinion from an independent "certified" Gem Laboratory. Be sure to ask for a diamond grading report from a nationally recognized gem lab, such as the G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) or one of the United States branches of the E.G.L. (European Gem Lab). The diamond grading report should include a detailed description of the diamond's color, dimensions, exact weight, and clarity grade.

b. "Enhanced" Diamonds

Many people are unaware that a number of techniques are used to improve the clarity of diamonds - by removing or hiding imperfections. Two very common techniques are laser drilling and fracture filling.

Laser Drilling

Many diamonds come from the earth with tiny black carbon specks inside them. Even if they are hard to see, they tend to scatter light and reduce the brilliance of the diamond. About 25 years ago, high powered laser beams were first used to "burn-out" these impurities. To reach the "inclusion," a laser drill is used to create a tiny hole reaching deep inside the diamond. Often the laser's heat will vaporize the speck. If not, acid is poured into the hole, usually dissolving the spot or bleaching it to a less noticeable white color. Naturally, this process is irreversible. And, since it has become an "industry-standard" procedure, it's not always disclosed by diamond sellers. However, at Jacques Jewelers, we'll always tell you about any treatment used to enhance a diamond sold at our store. The holes are so small in diameter, it's very difficult to see that the diamond has been drilled. Still, looking at the side of the stone in very bright light may show some thin "threads." Reliable diamond grading reports will always indicate when the stone has been laser drilled. The Federal Trade Commission has recently revised the "Trade Practice Guides" for the jewelry industry, and surprisingly, has omitted laser drilling from its list of diamond treatments that must be disclosed to the public. Normally, the FTC requires disclosure if the treatment: (1) is reversible (i.e. not permanent), (2) requires special care and handling (different from an untreated gem), and (3) substantially affects the diamond's value. Laser drilling is permanent, and the treated gems don't require any special care. However, drilled diamonds are worth less than undrilled ones of otherwise equal size and equal grade. When you're spending your hard-earned money on a diamond, you deserve to know the truth about what you're buying.

Fracture Filling
Sometimes, a chemical substance is used to fill small cracks in a diamond. The effect of this treatment can be very dramatic, turning a very "ugly" diamond into one that is remarkably brilliant.

However, all other things being equal, a treated, clarity-enhanced diamond is worth far less than one that is naturally beautiful. There's nothing inherently wrong with gem enhancement, as long as you know what's been done to the stone, and you're not paying for one thing and receiving another. This makes it important to know how to detect fracture filling. Luckily, the "dispersion index" of filler material is different from a diamond. It's close, but different enough so that you can detect it's presence by rotating the diamond under a bright light. At certain angles, the filler will create a "flash effect." Two companies in the United States supply most of the fracture-filled diamonds sold: Goldman-Oved Diamond Corporation and Yehuda Diamond Company. Fortunately, they are the "good guys," working to ensure that their products are not misrepresented to consumers. However, there are reports of hundreds of thousands of fracture-filled diamonds (especially small ones) being surreptitiously released into the jewelry distribution channel. You must be extra-vigilant when the true source of the diamond being shown to you is unknown. This goes double for fractional-carat stones.

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